Part 1, Drilling and Shank Extensions
In this picture you see my disk sander
and a block of Algerian briar. Using the disk sander and miter gauge,
I'll square of the block so that it sits even in the lathe chuck.
This is the squared block with a shape sketched in. I don't expect
that that shape is exactly what the finished pipe will look like, but it
does give me a starting guide. You'll also see the lines that I use to
align the block in the chuck for drilling.
The short section on the right side will become a shank extension. I
started with a pen blank and turned it down to a dowel to make it easier to
work with. I'm in the process of cutting it off. This type of wood is
called "Bocote."
The briar block is shown here spinning in the lathe chuck. I am in the
process of drilling out the draft hole. The step I skipped was making
a flat spot and starting a hole so that the bit doesn't wander. The
piece of tape on the bit is my depth marker.
The block has been rotated and I'm using a forstner bit to flatten out a
spot for the top of the bowl. In addition, I'm taking off enough material to
get the height of the bowl where I want it.
Now that the top has been set, the next step is to drill a pilot hole so
that the spade bit doesn't wander. Again, the tape on the bit marks
the depth.
This is a picture of the spade bit boring out the tobacco chamber.
Again, the tape marks depth. As I close in on the tape, I will stop
often to look for the draught hole. I don't want to over shoot!
This is the top of the bowl, post
drilling and sanding. I've also sanded out the inside of the tobacco
chamber to 220 grit.
This is the piece of Bocote from earlier. It has been chucked into my
Taig metal lathe so that I can square up the end and drill the hole for the
delrin mortise lining.
This is the block of briar still in the wood lathe. On top is the
Bocote with the delrin sleeve. Note that the delrin sleeve has been
roughed up to better hold the epoxy.
I'm using my drill chuck to put pressure on the extension. It works as a
clamp to hold it while the epoxy is drying.
A draught hole has been drilled through the center of the delrin. It
meets up with the hole on the other side and a pipe cleaner passes through
easily.
You can see the drill bit that I used to drill out a mortise in the delrin.
At this point, the block is drilled out and ready for rough shaping. Once it's rough shaped, I'll drill out a piece of rod stock and cut a tenon for the stem. Then the pipe will be shaped and the stem shaped to match. Following, I'll cut the slit in the stem, make the button at the end, and clean it out for a wide open draw. Then it'll be the finishing process.
Part 2, Shaping and Stem Making.